A palace of rumour

“I don’t think ghosts’ll be around in the daytime. Maybe when we come here in the evening, we’ll have that experience to look forward to.” An uneasy silence.

Ghosts. Screams. Sound of someone falling from the balcony. All that and more came to the minds of many Egyptians when Baron Empain Palace is mentioned.

“Most visitors come especially to ask where the rooms from which the ghosts appear are. These tales have not occurred by any means. The palace was deserted for 50 years, which makes people weave myths inspired by the bizarre design and the statues inside,” Baron Palace director Basma Selem told the Egyptian Mail.

In 1911, Belgian industrialist Baron Édouard Empain (1852-1929) built his palace in the then new city of Heliopolis, which he established in the desert northeast of Cairo.

Empain’s involvement in Egypt began in 1894, when he established the first tramway line in Cairo. After having built public transport systems in other countries, Empain obtained a stake in the Belgian Tramways Society of Cairo. This led to his grand real estate project of Heliopolis, where a transport link to downtown Cairo was established.

What makes his palace unique is that it blends the Beaux Arts architecture that draws on centuries of European tradition with an astonishing Indian/Khmer design. It was designed by French architect Alexandre Marcel who created decorative moulds inspired by Hindu and Buddhist legends to adorn the exterior of the palace.

Baron lived in the palace until his death in 1929, leaving the palace to his son until the latter’s death in 1946. Then Baron’s two granddaughters lived there until 1954 when the property of the Baron was nationalised and his palace was sold by public auction.

The palace was bought by a Syrian family, then a Saudi family, but neither lived there permanently as they were constantly travelling.

In 2005, the government purchased it from the new owners. It was first reopened to the public after a major Egyptian-funded three-year restoration ended in June 2020.

Since reopening, the palace has welcoming visitors and has been a centre for cultural activities and exhibitions.

Selem said the ghost stories date back to the time of the Baron.

“During WWI, when Heliopolis was taken over for hospitals and barracks, the palace as described “horrible and majestic” because it is so unlike Egyptian architecture,” she said.

At the foot of the steps at the entrance are two statues of Yali, a mythical creature characteristic of South Indian temples. Yali is part lion, part elephant and part horse is a protector against evil.

There are also concrete statues of Shiva, who is the Destroyer in the Hindu pantheon, surrounded by cobras.

You will also see a white marble statue depicting David of the Old Testament sheathing his sword after killing Goliath.

Everywhere, excited visitors are busy taking selfies or group photos in front of the bizarre statues and inside the halls.

The palace consists of a basement, the ground and first floors in addition to an open roof once used for dinner parties.

The basement contains rooms for servants and a kitchen. The ground floor has three reception halls open to each other. They contain multimedia displays. The first floor has four living rooms each with its own bathroom.

In the rooms are maps, documents, photos and information about the history of Heliopolis and its landmarks, of which one is the Basilica Church, where Baron Empain was buried in 1929.

Undoubtedly, there are no ghosts inside the palace. However, upon entry, one can feel as if Baron fills the corners of place and takes one into a journey inside his bizarre mansion.

Baron Empain Palace is open daily from 9am to 6pm. Tickets are available at the entrance. (To avoid crowds, it is recommended to visit it earlier in the day)