PARIS — History, fashion, and star power came together at Givenchy’s latest menswear show at Les Invalides in Paris.
Steeped in the martial aura of the former military hospital with its cast iron cannons, the show was the first of its kind across the monument’s sprawling balcony.
Film star and musician Jared Leto was among the luminaries who applauded the spectacle.
Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2024 menswear collections, including an interview with designer Matthew M. Williams:
GIVENCHY GETS CONFIDENT
In recent seasons, the creative heat at Givenchy under Williams had seemed somewhat tepid. However, this latest collection, presented against the backdrop of Les Invalides’ pale stone arches, displayed a new-found creative confidence from him.
The designer seems to be settling in to successfully steer the age-old LVMH-owned house into solid sartorial ground.
The show commenced with an array of finely tailored couture suits in striking black and white contrasts.
These looks, loose yet opulent, seamlessly meshed with the historical backdrop, setting an indulgent tone and priming the audience for what was to come.
In a welcome and inclusive turn for the maison, models of diverse backgrounds graced the runway. This wasn’t just a show; it was a statement, a testament to Givenchy’s dedication to inclusivity and modernity.
As the show progressed, the couture tailoring gradually gave way to utilitarian and – at times – militaristic elements.
These influences were likely borrowed from the show’s venue, the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. With rucksacks, zippers, straps, and toggles, Williams cleverly infused a sense of practicality into high fashion.
The disruptive silhouettes created by backpacks fastened at the back of the models echoed the venue’s military roots and lent an edgy vibe to the show.
It was a celebration of diversity, and most importantly, it was a beacon of creative growth for Williams at Givenchy.
MATTHEW M. WILLIAMS SPEAKS ON INSPIRATION
Williams draws his inspiration from unexpected quarters. In a candid interview with the AP, Williams revealed how his personal experiences — from being a father to living near Les Invalides — shape his fashion creations.
“My kids go to school in England,” he said, “so I’m looking at uniforms all the time, how kids wear it in different ways and throw other archetypes over it.”
These casual observations of children’s sartorial ingenuity have deeply influenced Williams, inspiring a sense of playful fusion of contrasting garments in his latest collection.
Moreover, Williams’ proximity to the historical Les Invalides impacts his design philosophy.
“This place did inspire the collection because I live overlooking this (building),” said. This daily backdrop of martial architecture has unmistakably imprinted itself onto his work, lending a stark, disciplined elegance to his recent menswear line.
